onsen maigic (kawazu, izu, japan)

Posted by timothy (Tokyo, Japan) on 15 February 2008 in Lifestyle & Culture and Portfolio.

Kawazu, Izu.
I believe I have always a fascination with water. Living in Japan has
brought out in me an increased intrigue in this most hypnotic element,
particularly in terms of how to combine it with trees and other flora:
ways of weaving it into the tapestry of a garden.

Hiking up in the hills of Kawazu, tracing back to the source of one if
the larger rivers in the area, I found a series of lovely waterfalls.
Now, it should be noted that as the entire area is geothermally
active, the water pouring out from various crevasses and streams was
not always cold-- in some areas steam was being released in such
voluminous amounts that it would appear as though the very earth was
giving birth to the clouds above.

After a while, we came to a giant onsen lodge built along the side of
the cliff; it had an amazing maze of pipes running to different rooms
and areas, some quite new and some that seem as though they had been
built into the very foundation of this ancient structure. It was quite
obvious from the gurgling within them these pipes were moving water--
and from the hiss of steam that would vent everyso often from random
places, hot water. As I ventured down an adjoining staircase to the
river below, I imagined that I was in the great onsen hotel in
"Spirited Away"; as the afternoon was wearing on, I thought of the
spirits heading in from the deep forest to enjoy a hot bath.

Descending further, I pass by several openings that look like caves--
and the laughter and chatter from within confirms the writing on the
outside: each is a different kind of bath, mixed with different
minerals and water from different areas along the mountains. A few
patrons exit, wrapped in a yukatta robe and heading over to one of the
other caves. Some people are continuing down the path; I decide to
follow.

At the base of the stone steps, I find myself wowed and wishing that
I, too, was wearing a robe and spending the night at the onsen-- at
the head of the river is a towering waterfall; along the side of the
river are different pools and springs.

They look so warm and inviting, with their steam curling lazily into
the increasingly chilly air.

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